Bouclé: Material research and Upcycling
Bouclé has become a beloved fabric among interior designers and couturiers, gaining huge popularity in recent years. And its rise shows no signs of slowing down. In this blog on bouclé material research, I explore the renewed fascination with this textile.
Soft, rounded furniture shapes in light bouclé frequently appear on the pages of interior magazines. This trend is often mentioned in the same breath as the revival of Scandi-chic and organic forms. European consumers in particular are embracing this tactile interior style: fabrics that add warmth and texture are a response to years of sleek, cold minimalism. Business clients appreciate the excellent sound-absorbing qualities of wall panels made from bouclé. The post-pandemic focus on comfortable clothing has also contributed to the fabric’s popularity. My expectation is that, in time, we’ll see a lot of this textile ending up in recycling containers… or perhaps not?
What is bouclé? Technique and structure
The term bouclé comes from the French word for “curl” or “loop.” Its defining feature is the small loops in the yarn, created through a specific production process. When at least two threads are twisted together at different tensions (one kept looser than the othe) the relaxed thread naturally forms loops along the length of the yarn. By adjusting the tension during this process, the loops can be made uniform or intentionally irregular.
From Jackie to Teddy: a brief history of bouclé
Bouclé fabric has existed since the 19th century in Europe, but only truly gained popularity in the mid-20th century, thanks in part to improvements in production techniques and reduced costs. During the modernist mid-century period, designers embraced bouclé’s unusual, “bubbled” texture for its distinctive look. Around 1940, Finnish-American designer Eero Saarinen used a rough wool-bouclé-like fabric for his furniture designs including the iconic Womb Chair (1948), commissioned by furniture designer Florence Knoll and upholstered in Knoll’s “Classic Bouclé.”
An even more famous example of bouclé’s use is the coveted suits by Chanel. The classic Chanel bouclé-tweed suit, a collarless, flexible jacket with a matching skirt, became emblematic of a new kind of elegance: stylish yet comfortable, unlike the stiff, lined women’s suits that came before. Bouclé gave Chanel’s tweeds a luxurious but softer appearance (less coarse than traditional Scottish tweed), considered more suitable for women’s clothing.
One of the most iconic examples is the raspberry-pink wool bouclé suit worn by Jacqueline Kennedy on the day her husband was assassinated.
Sixty years later bouclé experienced another resurgence this time in the form of long, soft “teddy” coats. These plush, fuzzy coats (often made from poly/acrylic bouclé-fleece) were a major winter trend around 2018–2020. They gave wearers the sense of having stepped out with their cosy living-room blanket wrapped around them.
Today, bouclé also features prominently in interiors. The current design trend emphasizes soft, warm, affordable sofas and armchairs and decorative cushions. Even the automotive industry experiments with bouclé upholstery to evoke a “living-room feeling.”
Material research: types of bouclé and their properties
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Bouclé is not a material in itself, but a weaving technique. The yarns can be made from wool (or mohair—often sourced from South Africa), cotton, silk, linen, or synthetic fibres. Wool bouclé naturally has a slightly fuzzy halo and is flame-retardant. It feels full and luxurious — and comes with a higher price tag.
Cotton bouclé is lighter in weight and more breathable. Its surface is less fluffy than wool, with a more matte texture and a firmer hand feel. Silk or linen can also be used to create bouclé fabrics. These produce fine, smooth loops with a subtle sheen.
Silk bouclé is extremely luxurious and offers an elegant drape. Unfortunately, as a circular designer, I have not yet had this fabric in my hands — likely because it is fairly rare, expensive, and not very durable.
Linen bouclé has a cooler, drier hand feel, and is usually blended with wool or cotton for added strength.
Synthetic bouclé (polyester, acrylic) is the most common type. It is very strong and durable, holds colour well, and is often less soft than natural fibres and less breathable. However, it is cheaper and easy to wash.
The final category of base materials consists of blended fibres — a mix of any of the above.
Acoustics: bouclé as a sound-absorbing material
Nothing quite compares to bouclé when it comes to sound absorption. Traditionally, bouclé was used in theatres and music studios as curtain or upholstery fabric because of its acoustic qualities. The thick, woolly loops absorb sound far better than smooth fabrics. Today, specially engineered bouclé-like textiles are used for acoustic panels in offices, studios, and homes. These panels are marketed as design objects that improve sound while also looking beautiful. The soft, uneven bouclé structure breaks sound waves and prevents echo.
Environmental impact: bouclé in sustainability and recycling
All types of textiles place some burden on nature, that is well known. But because we cannot live without textiles, we need to consider which kinds are the least harmful. Natural plant-based fibres require large amounts of water and land, but they are highly biodegradable. Natural animal-based fibres are associated with methane emissions and the environmental cost of producing animal feed, yet they also break down fully in nature. Synthetic fibres avoid these issues, but they come with a different and perhaps more serious problem: the shedding of microplastic particles that enter waterways, reach the oceans, and ultimately end up in our own bodies. Fibre blends are the most problematic for recycling companies, as each fibre type requires a different recycling method.
Although recycling bouclé textiles is challenging, it is worth noting that this material can have a longer lifespan compared to other fabrics. While empirical data is lacking, it seems reasonable to assume that bouclé may last somewhat longer. Under heavy wear you might see areas that become slightly flatter, but the effect is far less noticeable than in flat-weave fabrics. The loops also help camouflage small stains, meaning the fabric requires less frequent washing.
Future of bouclé: circularity and innovation
The expectation is that recycled and circular bouclé materials will continue to grow. Manufacturers are likely to invest more in post-consumer recycled fibres (for example, from discarded clothing or plastic waste) to spin bouclé yarns. Bio-based bouclé may also become a key theme: yarns made from recycled wool, plant-based fibres, or even fungal threads (mycelium) could be used to create environmentally friendly looped textiles. Brands will increasingly label their products as eco-bouclé or GRS-certified, and consumers will hopefully begin to pay more attention to these qualities when purchasing bouclé clothing or furniture.
Interestingly, luxury brands are also beginning to embrace recycling and upcycling trends. Chanel, for instance, is known to donate leftover bouclé-tweed to art schools or repurpose it in small accessories, minimising waste in the process.
Practical research: my tests with leftover materials
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As an upcycle designer, I work with production waste rather than chemical or mechanical recycling. In my bouclé material research (my Material Lab) I tested various types of bouclé. My fabric pieces come from countless interior textile sample books and a small amount from discarded clothing. I tested cotton bouclé, wool, polyester and blended yarns, focusing mainly on how these fabrics can be cut, how their edges behave, and how easily they can be cleanly bonded to a panel. Interior textiles gave surprisingly good results, likely because they are woven more densely or even backed with a thick supporting layer.
When cutting, the edges are always one of the biggest concerns. To prevent fraying, I always reinforce them with different types of glue. Sewing edges together can also be challenging with bouclé because the loops may get caught or snag on the presser foot. Embroidery on bouclé is difficult as well, especially on coarse, high-pile bouclé. On low-pile and softer bouclé it may be possible, provided a water-soluble stabiliser or another temporary reinforcement is used.
Do you have a project in which your bouclé fabrics can be upcycled such as upholstery for lounge sofas or chairs, wall panels, art pieces, or acoustic modules? Feel free to contact me fopr your own material researh. Perhaps your upcycled bouclé will soon hang on the wall in a geometric or organic shape, becoming a new eye-catcher.
